November 11th, 1935.
Arrived Jalgaon at 6:30am, had chota hazri (light breakfast) at dak bungalow and then to Fardapur guest house. Visited the Ajanta caves which are hewn out of solid rock on the hill side and they number twenty six. Wonderful carving and remains of some splendid painted ceilings and panels. They were hewn and carved about 1000B.C and are of great interest to all archaeological students. Since leaving Bombay we have done over 260 miles by train and 120 miles by car. Hot and dusty and all accommodation very primitive. But we are seeing India where European influence does not penetrate. H.E.H. the Nizam of Hyderabad rules here and is restoring the Ajanta caves, laying on electric light so that the beauties of this ancient work can be better seen. On our motor trip we crossed several rivers, the beds of which were nearly dry, but we required the services of natives with ropes to pull us up the bank out of the river Purna. Owing to some dispute the day previously with our driver who was a Parsee, the natives refused to come across and help us until our courier, who was a white man, got out of the car. They then rushed across with the rope and after a heated argument, under our own power and with their help we got across. At one time it looked as though there was going to be trouble as our driver got vexed and got hold of one of the natives as if he were going to strike him. They are very black men here and some only wore loin cloths. Our driver had evidently not paid them enough the day before. We offered them money but they would not take it; the Parsee must pay. There would be about 25 of them to help us out of the river. Poor beggars! One felt sorry for them. We shall be glad when we get to a decent hotel for grub and a bath.